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    Progression · 5 min read

    Front lever: the progressions, from tuck to full

    The basics you need, the right position, the four steps from the tuck to the full front lever, and a sample session to move from one stage to the next.
    Front lever: from tuck to full
    Contents 9 parts

    The front lever means holding your body horizontal under the bar, arms straight, facing the ceiling. It's a static strength skill: you build it in steps, first by shortening the lever, then by lengthening it. You need a pull-up bar or rings.

    The basics you need

    • 8 to 10 strict pull-ups.
    • A 30-second hollow body hold: back on the floor, lower back pressed down, legs and shoulders lifted.
    • Scapular pull-ups: hanging with straight arms, you pull your shoulders down without bending your elbows.

    The right position

    • Arms straight. Elbows locked from start to finish.
    • Shoulders down. Pull your shoulder blades down and push the bar towards your hips.
    • Pelvis locked. Squeeze your glutes and abs, without arching your lower back.
    • Head in line. Neither tucked in nor thrown back.
    • The grip. Overhand, hands slightly wider than your shoulders.
    Front lever: body aligned or hips broken Body alignedGlutes and abs tightHips brokenLegs dropping: stop the set
    Common mistake

    Holding longer by letting your hips drop. Five aligned seconds beat fifteen broken ones: you train the position you repeat.

    The 4 steps of the front lever

    The four steps of the front lever 1. TuckKnees to chest2. Advanced tuckFlat back, hips at a right angle3. StraddleLegs straight and apart4. Full front leverLegs straight and together
    Step Position Before moving on
    1. Tuck Knees to chest, back horizontal, arms straight. 3 × 15 s
    2. Advanced tuck Flat back, knees away from the chest, hips at a right angle. Often the longest step. 3 × 15 s
    3. Straddle Legs straight and apart. The wider the straddle, the easier it is. 3 × 10 s
    4. Full Legs straight and together, body aligned from shoulders to feet. Aim for 5 s, then 10 s

    Each step moves your weight further from the bar: the lever gets longer and the effort rises quickly. If a jump between steps is too big, add an in-between position:

    • One leg straight, the other tucked, between the advanced tuck and the straddle. Alternate sides from one set to the next.
    • The half lay, thighs in line with your torso and knees bent, between the straddle and the full front lever.

    1. Tuck front lever

    From a hang, arms straight, bring your knees to your chest and lift until your back is parallel to the floor. Your marker: hips level with your shoulders. The classic mistake is bending your elbows to get up there: keep your arms locked and push the bar towards your hips.

    2. Advanced tuck front lever

    Move your knees away from your chest until your thighs are vertical, under your hips. Your back goes from rounded to flat, and that's what makes this step hard. If your back rounds during the hold, stop the set: a shorter, flat hold beats a long, rounded one.

    3. Straddle front lever

    Straighten your legs and spread them wide, toes pointed. Squeeze your glutes so your hips stay in line with your shoulders. Start very wide, then bring your legs a little closer from one session to the next.

    4. Full front lever

    Legs together and straight, your body forms a plank from shoulders to feet. Film yourself from the side: hips that sag or feet higher than your head mean a broken position. At first, string together several short, clean holds rather than one long one.

    Exercises that help you progress

    • Negatives. Start in an inverted hang, body vertical, feet towards the ceiling. Lower yourself as slowly as you can to horizontal, then down to a hang.
    • Raises. From the hang, raise yourself with straight arms to your step's position, then lower under control.
    • Front lever rows. In the tuck position, pull the bar towards your stomach while keeping your back horizontal.
    • The band-assisted hold. Hook a resistance band onto the bar and put it under your hips. It makes the position lighter and lets you work on the next step.

    Has your pulling plateaued? Weighted pull-ups build the back strength you're missing.

    Your typical session

    Block Exercise Volume
    Hold Your current position 4 to 5 × 8 to 15 s
    Dynamic Negatives or raises 3 × 3 to 5
    Pulling Front lever rows, tucked 3 × 5
    Core Hollow body hold on the floor 3 × 30 s
    • Two to three sessions a week, never two days in a row.
    • The front lever first, when you're fresh.
    • Two minutes' rest between holds.
    Tip

    Film yourself from the side. From the inside, you think you're horizontal when your hips are often too high or too low.

    Mistakes to avoid

    • Bending your elbows. You turn the hold into a pull-up, and you're no longer working the same lever.
    • Letting your shoulders rise. Without your shoulder blades pulled down, your back can't hold.
    • Arching your lower back. Squeeze your glutes to lock your pelvis.
    • Moving up a step too early. Get your 3 clean sets before lengthening the lever.
    • Swinging up. Raise yourself under control, or start from a negative.

    Bar or rings

    • A wall-mounted bar. Perfect for the tuck and the advanced tuck. As soon as you straighten your legs, the wall gets in the way: there's no room to stretch out in front of or behind the bar.
    • Rings. Hang wooden rings from your bar and position yourself parallel to the wall: you have the full length for the straddle and the full front lever. Your wrists rotate freely, which is often more comfortable. Our guide explains how to set up your rings.
    • A door pull-up bar. Your body goes through the doorway. A door pull-up bar works for static holds, with no swinging.

    Our wall-mounted bar with 6 handles takes rings and resistance bands.

    How long it takes, and what next

    Allow several months of regular training. The taller and heavier you are, the longer the lever: progress then takes more time, and that's normal.

    The same step-by-step approach works for the muscle-up, which you can train alongside it.

    Pair of wooden gymnastic rings hanging from their black straps Mentioned in this guide Wooden Gymnastic Rings with Straps (Pair)Birch, smooth two-coat finish · 28 or 32 mm · 236 mmFrom 45,00 € View product View product

    Frequently asked questions

    How long does it take to get the front lever?

    Allow several months of regular training, at 2 to 3 sessions a week. It takes longer if you're tall or heavy, because you have a longer lever to hold.

    How many pull-ups do you need before starting the front lever?

    Aim for 8 to 10 strict pull-ups, a 30-second hollow body hold on the floor and solid scapular pull-ups. Then you can start on the tuck front lever.

    What muscles does the front lever work?

    Mainly the lats, along with the traps, the rhomboids and the backs of the shoulders. Your abs, glutes and lower back keep your body aligned.

    Front lever on a bar or on rings?

    Both work. On rings, your wrists rotate freely and you can position yourself parallel to the wall. On a bar, the grip is fixed and you need space in front and behind.

    Why do my hips drop in the front lever?

    The step is still too hard, or your glutes are relaxing. Go back to the previous step, squeeze your glutes and abs, and stop the set as soon as your alignment breaks.

    Equipment mentioned in this guide

    See the Pull Up Bars collection